In ancient times, there existed a unique type of tableware that, despite its intricate craftsmanship, was long regarded as a symbol exclusively associated with the poor. This perception was so entrenched that it led many to marvel at just how destitute the impoverished in the past could be. What exactly was the story behind this? If you’re curious, allow me to unravel this mystery for you.
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With the rise of internet access, a growing number of historical dramas have been brought to the screen, especially those set during the Qing Dynasty and Republican era. These dramas often depict the lives of the poor and beggars, with one of the most telling props used to highlight their destitution being a battered, falling-apart black bowl. Indeed, in our modern understanding, such bowls seem unmistakably worn-out, and it’s normal to break a few at home — no one would intentionally use a bowl that’s crumbling. However, what might surprise many is that, in ancient times, even a bowl in such poor condition was considered a luxury for beggars.
At this point, some might raise doubts: if even a broken, discarded bowl was an unattainable luxury, just how severe was poverty in ancient times? This question isn’t rare, as many have never truly experienced extreme hardship, making it difficult to imagine the harshness of such poverty. The poor back then often did not even own a single set of their own tableware, and they sometimes had no opportunity to scavenge for leftovers. This raises a pressing question — if beggars couldn’t afford these worn-out bowls, what kind of utensils did they use instead?
The scholar Zheng Xuan once described a type of tableware in his writings, noting, “箪笥, used for holding food, with round ones called ‘箪’ and square ones ‘笥.’” The commentator Kong Yingda explained that both the round “箪” and the square “笥” were made of bamboo or sometimes reeds. Indeed, the “箪” was among the most common ancient utensils crafted from natural materials.
The Analects of Confucius also mention “one箪 of food, one瓢 of drink,” indicating a simple lifestyle sustained by just a single bamboo food container and a gourd for water. While few could aspire to such simplicity, Confucius’ disciple Yan Hui was known to live by this austere standard.
So, what exactly was a “箪”? Essentially, it was a bowl woven from bamboo or reeds. The idiom “箪食壶浆,” referring to simple food and drink, directly references such utensils. The size of a 箪 was similar to that of a regular bowl, and it was versatile enough to hold either water or porridge. Remarkably, ancient artisans were so skilled that these bamboo containers were often watertight, effectively rivaling modern bowls in functionality. Given that these utensils were made merely from bamboo and grass stalks, the craftsmanship involved in weaving them must have been exceptionally sophisticated.
However, there were notable drawbacks to using 箪 as dining vessels. Because they were constructed from bamboo or wood, their surfaces contained many tiny gaps, making them difficult to clean thoroughly after holding liquids like porridge. Even after washing, the moisture lingering in these containers would often cause mold to develop, posing serious health risks. For beggars who relied on leftovers, any uneaten food stored in a 箪 would quickly spoil. Due to these hygiene and durability concerns, even commoners and nobles avoided using bamboo utensils, leaving them mainly for the poorest to reluctantly rely on.
After the Tang Dynasty, the advent of ceramics revolutionized dining ware. The introduction of ceramic bowls vastly improved the quality and hygiene of tableware, eventually allowing beggars to have more durable and safer utensils for their daily use. Still, bamboo utensils had advantages: unlike fragile ceramics that shattered easily, the woven structure of a 箪 made it incredibly resilient — even if dropped forcefully, it would rarely break. This durability was a feature unmatched by most other types of tableware at the time.
In modern times, many manufacturers have shifted to producing metal tableware. Metal dishes are easy to clean and resistant to breaking, but their high thermal conductivity means they heat up quickly, sometimes causing inconvenience during meals. This reality suggests that no single type of tableware can be perfect. Perhaps it is this very imperfection that inspires continual innovation among experts and artisans seeking better solutions.
Reference: “The Ancient Song” by Li Weitong, published by Hunan Publishing House
Editor: Wen Xiucai, Wenlan Hairun Studio
Article author: Historical contributor Changshan Zhaozichong
